Remain SS24 Spring/Summer 2024 Collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Originality [ uh-rij-uh-nal-i-tee ] noun
1. ability to think or express oneself in an independent and individual manner; creative ability.
REMAIN Spring Summer 2024 proposes a new way of looking. Looking into ourselves and what it is to be original. Each item is created with subtle complexity, presenting a backdrop for independence. Garments are brought to life, through the confidence and individuality of the wearer.
Dependable to the core, the collection presents exquisite craftsmanship in tailoring and leather, exploring intensely modern silhouettes, finishes and fabrics whilst embracing heritage.
Essential to the REMAIN oeuvre, established ideas of tailoring are both observed and reworked, honouring traditions of masculine suiting, but playing with proportion to create something innately powerful, and indeed, feminine. Leaning into the sculptural silhouette of the female form, hourglass volumes are celebrated and accentuated by in-built boning, fitted and ruched waist details, and chunky belts. Trousers are elongated and elegant, with shapely flared bottoms and extra wide leg cuts that expand and fan in motion. Yet jackets and outerwear remain dominant with strong cuts, cocoon sleeves, wide shoulder and exaggerated collars, balanced by their delicate counterparts.
Leather forms a steady foundation of the collection, communicating the refinement, maturity and femininity through careful contrasts. Darkness meets light, as dynamic leather outerwear pieces are paired with gauzy transparent knits, delicate shirting and a flowing sheer hand-embellished skirt and robe, intensifying the effect of each item through its contrasts. Balance is found in opposition, creating a level of consistency against the chaos of the everyday.
Simple but strong shapes are subverted by intricate details, the eye is drawn to the minutia of the collection. Seen from afar, robust metal stud hardware decorates a structured suede overcoat, but seen in detail, they group to form delicate flowers, disintegrating traditional ideas of feminine and masculine. Utilitarian knots are translated into casual gestures seen on cotton tops and in silky leather on skirts and dresses. Three-dimensional fabrics toy with the senses of its observers and encouraging them to look closer, to touch, to experience, seen in: coated denim, diaphanous blouses, and supple leather is discreetly layered to create volume. Each fabric is chosen with consideration in quality and impact, with 92% of the garments being made from preferred fabrics, yarns and leathers. Simplicity in palette takes precedent throughout, with seasonal tones of warm browns, earthy green and monochrome.
Accessories echo the contradictions of the collection. Structural, boxy bags are paired with bohemian knotted details, each in earthy greens and deep browns. Channastudios footwear, summarizes the mood of the collection, where upcycled clean pointed heel shoes are adorned with draped and sculpted stiff fabric. Each shoe, a unique, original piece of art. Refinement is found in the smallest of details, of which are found through observation and tactility.
REMAIN SS24 inspires reflection, quite literally mirrored in the staging of its runway show. A house of mirrors built within the elegant OOvergaden gallery, encourages attendees not pre-judge but to observe and look deeper into themselves.
Photo: Press Remain
More on: @remainbirgerchristensen