ETUDES SS24 N23 Spring Summer 2024 during Paris Fashion Week.
For the final chapter in its triptych dedicated to Paris, tudes takes to the capitals rooftops. After investigating the citys epicenter and periphery, the brand continues its meta-urban exploration by anchoring itself above the city limits. This season, tudes deploys a new space-time, a radical way of experiencing reality. In these zinc mazes, time is suspended, almost stretched out. Space is liberated, and clandestinity encourages distancing from everyday life. Its in the fading light of the CRPUSCULE giving its name to the Spring Summer 2024 collection that its easiest to access Parisian rooftop: when the light fades, and silhouettes transform into shadows. The feeling of lightness is infused with a shot of adrenalin, the senses are over-stimulated, and the present is conjured up. At the height of Paris, we see before we are seen, we observe without being observed.
The stereotypical image of Parisian rooftops is deconstructed and transformed through the prism of tudes. The creative trio of Jrmie Egry, Aurlien Arbet, and Jos Lamali revisit the imaginary world of this heterotopian space, blending references to gabber culture, skateboarding, and soft tailoring. True to its stylistic imprint, tudes plays back and forth between structure and movement, workwear patina, and streetwear comfort. This season, tailoring elegance meets a functional allure, while outdoor influences and technical details soften the sartorial style. Silhouettes are wrapped in revisited bombers, transforming into jumpsuits, jackets, and trench coats with gathered sleeves. Wide nylon multi-pocket pants come together with oversized jackets and sophisticated double-breasted coats. A technical-outdoor harness collides with an upgraded silk tracksuit.
Messages punctuate the collection Exit, Insomnia, High, as well as the enigmatic La Nuit Dort le Jour (Night slumbers during the day), multiplying nods to graffiti, street, and technoculture, which are joined by various sublimable images. An alien B-boy appears while a flaming manga figure evokes Paris gargoyles and Gothic architecture. The E of tudes becomes a scratched motif in the style of a motocross logo, while barbed wire encircles the dreamy Crpuscule. Brambles climb up the sleeves of hoodies, evoking the forbidden and the risky.
As a prelude, colors swirl around pigeon blue, zinc, and charcoal grays are joined by black and navy hues reminiscent of a deep night. Silhouettes then burst into an orange glow, highlighting the colorama with a nod to warning signs. The appearance of dawn gradually tints the looks with bright white. Ivory mingles with khaki in a mottled, almost pixelated print, sprayed onto workwear jackets and pants like graffiti fog. The notion of risk is transposed into textural effects that suggest the passage of time, with worn-out jeans and screen-printed jackets graffitied in black as if bearing traces of soot.
A carte blanche collaboration with Julian Farade completes the collection. The French artist has produced drawings exclusively for tudes. Blending figuration and abstraction, Farade, best known for his chimerical bestiary, has reinterpreted the world of Parisian rooftops through bird, chimney, and butterfly motifs, evoking the ephemeral moment of twilight. His colorful, chaotic shapes adorn several pieces, including a denim jacket, baggy pants, and a shirt.
tudes Spring Summer 2024 show took place on a rooftop parking lot in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, at the foot of Montmartre, overlooking the citys skyline. The show was set to a live performance from DJ and techno music producer The Hacker.
Text and Photo: Press Etudes .
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